Peerless Gearbox Manual
My Murray riding mower Model 46576x92B had been lacking power when moving in reverse, and it struggled going forward. The engine ran fine, it was something in the drivetrain that was giving me issues. I've had this tractor since 1998 and it has worked great up until this year. I really didn't want to spend a bunch of money on another riding mower if I could fix this one. I just didn't know where to start other than the troubleshooting section in the manual.
I adjusted the linkage from the transmission and that really didn't help. The next thing I did was replace the belts. I figured since I've had the tractor for so long they could probably use replacing. Replacing the drive belt was not easy, but I did it. Unfortunately, that didn't fix the problem either. Drats! The tractor just had no power and could barely go up a hill anymore. Through the process of elimination and numerous web searches, I figured the problem had to be the transaxle.
Some internet sites showed prices upwards of $400 for a new one. Apparently I'm not the only person out there having this issue with the Peerless 205-024C Transaxle. There are a lot of posts from people with the same symptoms. A common conclusion is that the transaxle oil breaks down over time and must be replaced.
Unfortunately I couldn't find many good articles on how to do this and everyone had their own unorthodox way to do it. Some guys were actually hoisting their tractor up from the front in order to drain the oil out of the transaxle. I'm here to tell you that changing the oil is not hard to do and most importantly, it DID fix the problem. It only makes sense that the fluid in a hydraulic system eventually loses its viscosity and won't work anymore.
This certainly happens a lot faster when it gets overheated, which occurs when the transaxle gets covered with dirt and grass. Since there seems to be a lot of people looking for some information on how to change the oil in this transaxle, I decided to take some photos and see if I could help out. If you have a little bit of mechanical ability, you can do it.
If you want to check if you even have oil in the transaxle, there are two rubber plugs on the top. You can get to them from the battery compartment, but if your transaxle was caked in dirt and dried grass like mine they're hard to spot. The one under the fan (left side) is for the hydraulic fluid, and the other is for the gear oil. Here is a photo showing their locations (after it's cleaned off, of course). To change the hydrostatic oil, you'll need to remove the transaxle.
Take the back wheels off and block up the back of the tractor so you can get to it. There is a shiny, square metal plate that houses a rubber bellows (see the photo below). This plate has to be removed to drain out the oil, but it sits in a position that won't let you do that while the transaxle is attached. There are only a handful of bolts to take off and they're easy to get to. You have to unhook the brake linkage and take off the drive belt too, but it's no big deal. Just remember where they go back.
Put a jack or something underneath the transaxle before unbolting it, or have someone help hold it - the transaxle is actually quite heavy. Safety first. Here is a photo of that plate that needs to be removed. There are four bolts that require a special type of torx bit, but I was able to drill them out and use a regular torx bit on them. Vice grips work too. Have the transaxle sitting vertically like this or the oil will spill out when you remove the plate.
Once you remove the plate, you'll find a rubber bellows assembly inside that just lifts right out. The oil is under that.
Simply dump it out into a container by tilting the transaxle over. Try to get out as much as you can, but as long as you get most of it you should be ok. As far as what kind of oil to put back into it, I've read a lot of posts and there are some similarities on what to use. Sure, you can spend $45 and get the bellows kit and oil directly from a Murray distributor, but more than likely there is nothing wrong with the rubber bellows.
Some small engine dealers sell hydrostatic fluid, and I assume that will work. Me, I used synthetic motorcycle oil 20W-50. Several people said its viscosity works great for this transaxle. I bought 2 quarts and simply poured it in where that plate was until when I installed the bellows the oil was right at the top. One thing you'll want to do is get the air out, so rock the transaxle back and forth until you don't see any more air bubbles. The oil should be running out around the edges of the square metal plate when you put it back on. Tighten the screws, wipe it off, and that is it.
Now reinstall the transaxle back onto your tractor. Well, my Murray riding mower ran like it was brand new after I changed that oil. I've been using it for several months now and have had no more issues with power or sluggishness.
In another 5 to 10 years if I have the same symptoms I know what to do. This is how I did it.
I'm not saying it's right or wrong - all I know is it WORKED. If anyone else has some insight, suggestions, additional information, or critique please share. I was able to do this task in about 2 hours, and the only cost was the price of the oil. I hope this helps you! Update August 2014: I'm about done with a second mowing season since changing the oil and everything still works great. Plenty of power and no issues!
Update September 2015: Tractor is working just fine! Had to replace the choke cable and ignition switch, but the transaxle is working great. I've been cutting grass here in Maryland at least once a week since Spring, and I'm definitely getting my mileage out this Murray. Update July 2016: I can't believe it's been 3 years since I wrote this post, but I'm still cutting grass with the same Murray riding mower, and no issues at all with that transaxle since changing the fluid. I'm still cutting grass every week from April until late Fall and my Murray is working just fine.
Certainly getting my money's worth out of it. Update May 2018: With all the rain, the grass is growing like crazy now that summer is on its way. I've mowed the lawn several times already and yes, I'm still using my trusty Murray.
She's still going strong and not slowing down at all. The fluid change I did 5 years ago is paying off.
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My wife can't believe I'm still using this 20 year old mower. Anonymous Hi Johnny, I had to buy a used transaxle. I'm still thinking about changing the oils in it. Auto-Zone has got Lucas all-purpose hydraulic fluid 128 oz for $20.
I thought that was very reasonable although I wish they had a smaller amount for sale. This is the description 'Exceeds performance requirements for agricultural, construction and other off-highway and industrial equipment. Meets all OEM specifications for powershift transmissions including gears, pumps, differentials, final drives, bearings, wet brakes, transmissions and PTO clutch applications.
Meets and exceeds JOHN DEERE specifications J20A and Hy-Gard. Lucas universal hydraulic fluid is blended with the highest quality base oils and the highest quality additive package.' This sounds like some good stuff although it does not specify the weight it just says not available. Just thought I would put it out there in case anybody else is thinking about doing the same thing.
I still have not decided what fluid to use yet, but leaning towards the lucas hydraulic fluid. Anonymous I got the transaxle Thursday. I changed the oil on Thursday evening. I did what you said about trying to get all the air bubbles out. I just moved it from side to side and back and forth. I bought the transaxle used off ebay. The one I had I taken it apart without doing my research first.
Big mistake on my part I messed up the hydro pump. I found one on ebay finally after looking over a month. The oil I used was Valvoline full synthetic 20w50 motorcycle oil. I used about a quart and a quarter of the other quart. The gear oil I tried to drain without much success. I only had a little to come out.
I was going to maybe put some kind of cleaner in it, but I was pressed for time. I only had 24 hrs from delivery date before my warranty ran out. So, I just drained what I could and added 80w gear oil back in. I didn't know how much to put in.
I think I put in about 14 oz. It was a little more than halfway full. So after doing all that and installing on Friday. I cut the grass with it. At first it was running a little slow. After cutting the front, which takes about an hour. It starting really getting faster.
In fact, this was the first time it ran this fast in years. My original transaxle was slowing down also. I hit something with it the beginning of grass season. It didn't move at all. That's why I tore into it, but I messed the hydro pump up. Anyway, after cutting the front.
The speed started to pick up immensely. I don't know why it was so slow at first, maybe the oil needed to break in or I didn't get all the air bubbles out. All I know is that it ran like it was brand new after. I have not run it any since then, but will keep you posted. What would you use if you wanted to flush out the trans-axle?
I purchased the oil on sale for 7 bucks a quart, and need to know what to use instead of the new oil. There has to be some major sludge in there, along with some gear chips. This will be the first time this job is being completed in my 20yr. Not to cut down the OP, this is a great blog, but if I'm going thru this with a bad back, I want to do a thorough job to make it last as long as possible.
I know once I do all the taking apart parts, I won't feel like doing again in the near future. Johnny, Thank you for this blog it save me a lot of money not having to buy a new trans-axle. And after a lot I mean a lot of searches on the internet I found this one. My mower was doing the samething not wanting to go up the hills there was just no power.
However yesterday I did the oil change and follow your instruction (but I left the tires on) it worked out great. So after all that was said and done I got on it and let it warm up and then came the true challenge I hit the ditches.
Wow no problems there it almost like a new machine again more power and much quiter. I can climb mountains of this thing now. Thank you again, Kenny. Thanks for your help, I finally figured it out, the free whell rod is under the seat and goes down to a lever with a spring so while I had it jacked up I was rotating the tires and the pully was still frozen from spinning clock wise, so I manually operated the free wheel lever and found where it was stopping was about 1/4 ' short of where the spring is supposed to pull it. I pulled it back and forth a couple of times and you could hear a click and feel it when it reset all the way and then the pully started rotating clockwise again, I don't know what or how its all connected in there so I pulled out my box of springs and found one strong enough that the free wheel rod doesn't just flop - you have to pull it pretty hard now to get it to lock in the slot so you can push the mower and in return when you release it the new spring yanks the lever back into operating position. Thanks a lot for your help and maybe what I just posted will help someone else.
The drive belt pulleys failed on my 18 year old Scotts lawn tractor-that was the original belt. After replacing drive belt, pulleys etc there was no improvement in speed-reverse was ALWAYS very slow no matter how I adjusted the drive linkage. I decided to drain and replace the oil per this article. I found the problem-my bellows was split allowing oil to leak out. Bought the VST kit and installed-tremendous difference better than original-great speed forward and reverse. Here's a link http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Tecumseh/peerlesstransaxle.html.
I just bought a used Scotts riding lawn mower, model 42589X8, and I believe it has the same transmission as your tractor. I've only had it for a month, only mowing with it twice, and while it drives fine it sounds noisy when the drive is engaged. I was thinking of checking fluid levels through the two plug holes on the top as illustrated in your post. Do you know if I could I just top off both sides with oil and hydraulic fluid?
In other words, is it possible to 'over-fill' it will fluid and damage it? David, I'll let others chime in if I'm wrong but I don't think you can overfill the hydraulic oil part of the transaxle - you want the air out anyways.
With the gear oil, however I'd be concerned with foaming. I read in a manual somewhere that you should have 1/2' of 90 weight gear oil in that area. As far as the noise, that may or may not be coming from inside the transaxle. I would check the belts, the pulleys (keys, etc. To make sure something is not loose)? Maybe jack up the back and spin the tires without the engine running to see if there is anything obvious. Hopefully it didn't get so low on oil to where gears or hydraulic components were damaged in there.
I have a 1999 murray 42591x8b that barely moves. Garage kept and only around 50 hours on it. Brought to shop last year and requested both belts replaced since they were over 10 years old and the blade belt was worn. I also asked to check for other problems. They did not replace the drive belt. They told me it was fine, but I think they forgot, plus I requested it changed.
Anyway, I mowed 3 times before the mower slowed to a crawl. Now it is worse. No way it can make it up the smallest incline. I read a few forums about others having problems with this Murray, as well as the others like in this thread. I am not mechanically inclined. Some say if it is the transmission then it cannot be repaired. I see others mention being a repair kit that fixes it.
If it is not the belt or other issue and ends up being the transmission, can my model be fixed by changing the fluid? Thanks in advance!
Peerless Gearbox Manual
Wayne, the symptoms are certainly those attributed to either a need for an oil change or being low on oil. In my opinion, it can't hurt to change the oil - it's inexpensive compared to a new transmission and it just might be the fix. It's not difficult to do if you follow the instructions here - the 'repair kit' others mention is most likely the rubber bellows. You have to take it out anyways to change the oil and it'll give you a chance to inspect it. If it's got a hole in it, then that's an easy replacement.
More than likely you can reuse it, though. A new transaxle (if you can even find one) is several hundred dollars - not worth it considering the price of a new riding mower. For the price of some oil, I highly recommend changing the oil considering the age of the tractor. If you don't think you can do it, maybe there's a local small engine shop near you that can. Let us know how you made out, hopefully that's all that's wrong with it. Johnny, are you saying to change engine oil or referring to transmission fluid/oil? I'm hoping you mean engine oil, but guessing you mean the other.
Looking at my records, the engine oil has not been changed since 2006 and it was only used for 15 hours since then. I may of added a little since then. New air filter when the belt was changed last year. As mentioned I'm not mechanically inclined. I was reading manual and it said I had to remove housing to change belt. I looked at the Murray diagram and was easily confused. The transaxle is way more then I know how to deal with.
I inherited this from my dad. I just changed the hydrostatic oil in my (205-024C) tranny and and also put some new 80/90 wt. In the gear box now my tractor will not go backward/backup but will go forward.
Before I did that it did go both directions. I have checked the linkage and cannot find anything wrong. I adjusted the pedal linkage and it did not help. I filled the hydrostatic reservoir full so that when I replaced the bellows oil came out all around it as I was tightening it down. Do you think I put too much oil (Mobil synthetic 20 50) in it? I rocked the unit until all the air bubbles were out. I never took anything loose just the brake cable, spring, the neutral rod, and the shift rod.
What could have gone wrong unless it is excessive oil. Anybody, please help. Well by the Grace of God I was able to solve my problem with the tranny. You know I said it would not go in reverse.
After checking everything possible that could be wrong and found every thing to be in order, I jacked up the rear end and pushed the pedal forward and of course the wheels turned. I then pressed the pedal rearward and it just groaned and made no attempt to go in gear. So I reasoned that I had nothing to lose so I stomped on the rear of the pedal and with a couple of stomps it went in reverse gear and the wheels started to move backwards, I said praise the Lord. I tried it up a hill and it walked right up with no problem. Going to cut some grass this evening and see how it holds up. If you don't hear from me you know it worked out okay.
I don't know what the problem could have been as I did not take any thing loose except linkage. Could it have been a air bubble in the system. If any one have any thing to say please feel free to chime in. Thank you and have a blessed and great day. Thanks Johnny for your info. Of course had the same exact problems as you and a lot of people.
Followed your instructions and it worked perfectly, for about 5hrs or so of use. Back to the same sluggish, struggling problem. Used Lucas 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil and changed out the gear box oil as well with appropriate oil.??? I'm stumped.any suggestions before I take the axle back out and crack open the case.I mean if its not working, I may as well try to take it apart to see if I can fix a problem.Peerless (the company) is a JOKE. No help from them other than saying, 'You can purchase a replacement'.Ummm.NO not form them.I don't know how they can get away with not supplying parts.Even says in the manual that you must replace it with new if there is a problem.oh well. Garrett, sorry to hear the transaxle is giving you issues.
If it really is something mechanical, I just don't know if you could get parts. As you found out, they always want to sell a whole new transaxle. Before you crack it open though, I would check a couple things. Be sure you got all the air out - I'm sure you did that when you changed the oil but it's just one thing to rule out.
Another thing would be the drive belt or drive pulley. Make sure nothing is slipping. If the shaft is not turning, then the transaxle isn't pumping fluid.
The manual also has some instructions for adjusting the linkage, but I personally don't think that is ever an issue after it's initially set. You said it ran for 5 hours or so - could the oil have leaked out? Possible leak at the gasket when the cover was reinstalled? Just a few things off the top of my head. Hope it's an easy fix. Thanks Johnny for the prompt reply.
Yep everything you have mentioned, I have gone over.All the air bubbles were out. After filling the case with oil, I left it propped up and put a heat lamp on it overnight to warm the case and to thin the oil enough for the bubbles to work out. Then of course, rocked back and forth to make sure there was no more air. The bellows, sealed and hold a vacuum. I know there are no new parts for it, but may be able to gain some knowledge on the internals that I may be able to share.
Don't plan on opening up the pump, but want to see if I can get a pressure reading on it.I will figure out how once I see it.If it's something like, bushings, a seal, weak spring(s), ect. I will get all the specs I can and see if there is another brand that will work, or fab one.I will keep you and the blog posted.
Hi, Just did this to my Viking MT435H mower which also uses the Peerless 205 transaxle. Being in Australia I'd have to order the bellows kit from the USA but decided to just re-use the original one as it didn't have any splits.
I put extra oil in where the bellows goes, put bellows and plate back on then put the transaxle level and popped the filler plug out, a bit of oil came out everywhere but I'm pretty confident no air was in the system because I got it all back together and away she went. Very happy knowing its working better than ever. I used Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 oil. Hi, my name is Steve, and I'm from Pittsburgh Pa. All I gotta say is I'm glad I ran across this thread! I have a 1998 Murray 20 hp 46' cut rider mower, with a plow. I picked it in excellent condition, and really cheap (150.00).
All I wanted it for was to pull a cart around with firewood and stone in my yard. After getting it home and running it for about 10 minutes, the thing would barely pull me in the level-climbing any kind of grade at all wasn't happening. I started googling the problem I was having after replacing a pretty worn motion drive belt, but that didn't fix the problem. When I came across this thread and read all the comments, I figured I had to at least try to change out the fluid in the transaxle. I pulled the transaxle out of the mower, pressure washed all the gunk from the outside, pulled the cover and bellows and drained the fluid as per the advice here. I had a case of Amsoil 20w50 synthetic motor oil for my Harley, and I filled the thing back up and put the bellows and cover back on.
Reinstalled the transaxle into the mower, and started it up. I pulled it out of the garage and drive around on the level for about 8-10 minutes. I swear it got faster the more I drove it, so I decided to try to drive it up my buddy's driveway, which is a pretty decent incline. The mower drive up it like it was on the level.
I drive up and down the driveway in forward and reverse about 10 times and I really do think it was climbing better on every trip up it. I then decided to try and get daring and try to climb the grassy hillside next to my garage. It's pretty steep, actually steep enough to cause you to get winded a lil walking up it. It took the hill almost to the very top, the front tires actually started lifting off the ground and then the rear tires broke free in the grass and started spinning, so I backed back down the hill with a huge smile on my face!!! All I wanna say is THANK YOU ALL!!! All the advice on this thread saved me a ton of cash and having to go buy another mower. Hopefully this one lasts me a couple years, and if it ever happens again, I'll try to change out the oil before getting rid of it!
Again, thank you all!! Hi, my name is Tom, I'm from Australia. I have played with these transmissions for many many years as a backyard mechanic. The last two transmissions I had failed due to internal pieces breaking.
I just completed my disassembly and reassembly last weekend, and as usual, a broken roll pin prevented the reverse from working. All fixed now and reassembled with gasket maker. Anyone looking for photos or hints in disassembly, please ask. Btw, I have tried all types of oils in the hydrostatic and have found Valvoline 20-50 to work the best, and is cheap too.
Hi from the UK. Just wanted to add my thanks to those already expressed for this advice Johnny. I have a Countax 500H which was suffering the same problems - getting very slow after used for a while and wouldn't go up any inclines. I followed your advice and changed the oil (used Valvoline VR1)and the mower is 100% improved. Just to help any other Countax users who find this thread and want to remove their axle, would you mind if I added a few tips? 1) When removing the 4 bolts holding the axle try and fully remove them before attempting to drop the axle, otherwise they can catch when the axle is lowered.
Also watch out for the plate on the right hand side(part of the transportation lock??) which can be a bit fiddly and get caught up in the bolts - it helps to remove it first; there is a tensioning spring to disconnect, and a small bolt connecting to the transaxle at the back, AND make a note/take a photo of how it all fits. 2) Watch when you're removing the small brake pad none of the small parts fall out! 3) Removing the drive belt to the hydrostatic axle is made easier if you first remove the tensioning pulley under the footwell. Also, When re-assembling, try and get the fan belt in place BEFORE lifting the axle back up to the chassis for bolting. Once again, many thanks.